I’ve been toying with this post for a while, knowing that nothing on this truck is truly “cheap”… but there are a few things that just don’t fit into a category and I thought might be valuable intel.
Since I have powder-coated the D-shackels and don’t enjoy really listening to the clang of metal while I’m driving (especially when I am trying to diagnose something) I placed plastic coated magnets behind the shackles to rid me of this issue. If you want to take it to another level purchase rubber bushings to go between the shackle and the mount.
Harbor Freight makes a magnetic can holder of sorts that makes for a great cupholder. Unfortunately they only sell it in red. However, Those Military Guys also sell it at a premium in black… I’ll buy, I’ll buy, gezz, I’m an absolute sucker for black.
I have been using these MOB armor mounts for some time in my Tacoma. I also use one in my LMTV as it mounts right to the metal dash and is bombproof. It also matches my powder coat which doesn’t hurt. Priced at $65 but you’ll never need another one.
The old dodgy limit straps on the door are, well, limiting. The door on the LMTV can open a lot further if you just add an inch to these straps. I purchased some black seatbelt material online and had some new ones sewn to allow for extra room while getting in the truck.
My truck came with only one window crank and it was in pretty rough shape. I learned really quickly that I couldn’t just pick one up at an auto parts store. Through the posts at Steel Soldiers I learned that a Volvo 240 series window crank would fit the bill. These are just temporary till I can get the automatic windows in but still look decent.
Almost every bushing in the truck is absolutely shot, if you have an LMTV, walk around it and figure out what you need to replace ASAP. One of the hardest to get to is the cab bushing on the front of the truck… as a TEMPORARY solve, I drilled a 1.25 hole in two hockey pucks to keep metal from hitting metal on bumpy rides.
Replaced the cigarette lighter with a USB port on the passenger side. The one pictured also has a voltage reading in the center for around $10. I’ll probably end up with one on the drivers side at some point.
Broken Switch Tabs
If you have switches in your dash chances are at least a couple have broken tabs. I looked into getting new ones at the cost of about $50-$100 each. I found that if you file the corners of the switch making a notch a zip-tie will fit into the notch and keep the switch nice and snug in your dash.